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	<title>The Long Way Home &#187; Europe</title>
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	<link>http://gemmola.com/blog</link>
	<description>a blog created created (mostly) from an old iphone somewhere between Los Angeles and Denpasar</description>
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		<title>Mr Nikos Mitsou</title>
		<link>http://gemmola.com/blog/?p=1426</link>
		<comments>http://gemmola.com/blog/?p=1426#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Thu, 16 Sep 2010 18:20:05 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>chantzis</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Europe]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://gemmola.com/blog/?p=1426</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Unfortunately I couldn&#8217;t get a photo of Mr Nikos Mitsou. He was whisked away in his wheelchair for his connecting flight to Melbourne too rapidly. Nikos sat next to us on the plane from Athens to Abu Dhabi and told us much of his long life story. Born in 1910 in a village which from [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Unfortunately I couldn&#8217;t get a photo of Mr Nikos Mitsou. He was whisked away in his wheelchair for his connecting flight to Melbourne too rapidly. Nikos sat next to us on the plane from Athens to Abu Dhabi and told us much of his long life story.</p>
<p>Born in 1910 in a village which from 1930 until today has been named &#8216;Ktistades&#8217; after the occupation of most of the occupants (Ktistes &#8211; builders, or more precisely, stone masons). Nikos&#8217; father was also a builder and owned two strong mules which transported stone and mortar to construction sites. In 1943, the Germans requested he load his mules with arms and munitions to resupply the military positions of the occupying forces. He refused and was knocked in the head. A strong man with a height of nearly two meters, he got back up immediately and retaliated, knocking two soldiers down to the ground. He was then escorted to a superior, who had him severely bashed and thrown in a shallow spring to drown. He wasn&#8217;t discovered until four days later by his family.</p>
<p>Between 1955 and 1959 Nikos worked building stone houses in Laconia and Messinia, in the southern Pelopponese. After this he gained employment with a large construction company based in Lamia. A few years later he was accused by the ruling military junta of being a communist and faced exile. Instead, he managed to get on a ship bound for Australia.</p>
<p>Nikos now lives in Noble Park near his children. This was his last trip back to Greece, he says &#8211; aside from his age, he found the place disgusting, full of garbage and cigarettes and smoke. His trade as a stone mason has been abandoned by the Greeks and is now belongs to the Albanians.</p>
<p>Perhaps we&#8217;ll bump into him in Melbourne&#8230;</p>
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		<title>Abu Dhabi</title>
		<link>http://gemmola.com/blog/?p=1428</link>
		<comments>http://gemmola.com/blog/?p=1428#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Thu, 16 Sep 2010 15:21:04 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>chantzis</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Europe]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://gemmola.com/blog/?p=1428</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Dates stuffed with roasted, peeled almonds and then dipped in chocolate. Tastes just like a chomp bar!! But much more delicious. These guys weren&#8217;t interested in free cologne samples. A man picking dates at the airport.]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Dates stuffed with roasted, peeled almonds and then dipped in chocolate. Tastes just like a chomp bar!! But much more delicious.</p>
<p><a href="http://gemmola.com/blog/?attachment_id=1433" rel="attachment wp-att-1433"><img src="http://gemmola.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2010/09/IMG_4567-640x480.jpg" alt="" title="dates in chocolate" width="640" height="480" class="alignnone size-medium wp-image-1433" /></a></p>
<p>These guys weren&#8217;t interested in free cologne samples.<br />
<a href="http://gemmola.com/blog/?attachment_id=1429" rel="attachment wp-att-1429"><img src="http://gemmola.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2010/09/IMG_4566-640x480.jpg" alt="" title="sheiks" width="640" height="480" class="alignnone size-medium wp-image-1429" /></a></p>
<p>A man picking dates at the airport.</p>
<p><a href="http://gemmola.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2010/09/p_1600_1200_697E368F-0772-4EE1-A85D-8BA535D965CD.jpeg"><img src="http://gemmola.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2010/09/p_1600_1200_697E368F-0772-4EE1-A85D-8BA535D965CD.jpeg" alt="" class="alignnone size-full" /></a></p>
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		<title>New Acropolis Museum</title>
		<link>http://gemmola.com/blog/?p=1413</link>
		<comments>http://gemmola.com/blog/?p=1413#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2010 08:03:35 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>chantzis</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Europe]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://gemmola.com/blog/?p=1413</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[The Acropolis museum, day and night. View from the museum.]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>The Acropolis museum, day and night.</p>
<p><a href="http://gemmola.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2010/09/p_1600_1200_4C04802F-D962-42BC-8B27-4BD7FD240A26.jpeg"><img src="http://gemmola.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2010/09/p_1600_1200_4C04802F-D962-42BC-8B27-4BD7FD240A26.jpeg" alt="" class="alignnone size-full" /></a></p>
<p><a href="http://gemmola.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2010/09/p_1600_1200_850F42B2-1428-4E9D-9C4F-8284DB38A9B5.jpeg"><img src="http://gemmola.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2010/09/p_1600_1200_850F42B2-1428-4E9D-9C4F-8284DB38A9B5.jpeg" alt="" class="alignnone size-full" /></a></p>
<p>View from the museum.</p>
<p><a href="http://gemmola.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2010/09/p_1600_1200_704A7DEF-9AC4-4EC8-BDFA-D48DA705BCFE.jpeg"><img src="http://gemmola.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2010/09/p_1600_1200_704A7DEF-9AC4-4EC8-BDFA-D48DA705BCFE.jpeg" alt="" class="alignnone size-full" /></a></p>
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		<title>Ballet at the Odeon of Herodes Atticus</title>
		<link>http://gemmola.com/blog/?p=1396</link>
		<comments>http://gemmola.com/blog/?p=1396#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2010 07:30:19 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>chantzis</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Europe]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://gemmola.com/blog/?p=1396</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Mum&#8217;s birthday present was utilised to take Martina to a show at the wonderful Irodio. This Odeon was built 1900 years ago in memory of Herodes&#8217; wife Appia Annia Regilla Atilia Caucidia Tertulla (or Aspasia, as he called her). It seems strange that modern Greeks have only one first name, while back in the day [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Mum&#8217;s birthday present was utilised to take Martina to a show at the wonderful Irodio. This Odeon was built 1900 years ago in memory of Herodes&#8217; wife Appia Annia Regilla Atilia Caucidia Tertulla (or Aspasia, as he called her). It seems strange that modern Greeks have only one first name, while back in the day it was the more, the merrier. Herodes&#8217; full name was Lucius Vibullius Hipparchus Tiberius Claudius Atticus Herodes. He claimed lineage from Zeus&#8230; what&#8217;s certain is that he was a great benefactor for the city of Athens.</p>
<p>Lucius Vibullius Hipparchus Tiberius Claudius Atticus Herodes:<br />
<a href="http://gemmola.com/blog/?attachment_id=1407" rel="attachment wp-att-1407"><img src="http://gemmola.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2010/09/350px-Herodes_Atticus_-_bust_-_Athens_Museum.jpg" alt="" title="Herodes_Atticus" width="350" height="599" class="alignnone size-full wp-image-1407" /></a></p>
<p>The Odeon seats 5000 people and originally had a wooden roof. I&#8217;m curious as to how the roof was supported.<br />
<a href="http://gemmola.com/blog/?attachment_id=1423" rel="attachment wp-att-1423"><img src="http://gemmola.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2010/09/OdeonPano-640x326.jpg" alt="" title="OdeonPano" width="640" height="326" class="alignnone size-medium wp-image-1423" /></a></p>
<p>The ballet was a tribute to Rudolf Nureyev with dancers from Europe, the Bolshoi, and other well-pirouetting sources. Anything one sees at the Odeon is fantastic but even I enjoyed the ballet, especially the second piece, a section of the dance &#8216;Elegy&#8217; (I believe it is on Melbourne&#8217;s program at the moment).<br />
<a href="http://gemmola.com/blog/?attachment_id=1400" rel="attachment wp-att-1400"><img src="http://gemmola.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2010/09/IMG_9595-640x480.jpg" alt="" title="ballet2" width="640" height="480" class="alignnone size-medium wp-image-1400" /></a><br />
<a href="http://gemmola.com/blog/?attachment_id=1399" rel="attachment wp-att-1399"><img src="http://gemmola.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2010/09/IMG_9606-640x480.jpg" alt="" title="Ballet1" width="640" height="480" class="alignnone size-medium wp-image-1399" /></a></p>
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		<title>Goodbye Militsa</title>
		<link>http://gemmola.com/blog/?p=1393</link>
		<comments>http://gemmola.com/blog/?p=1393#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2010 07:05:26 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>chantzis</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Europe]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://gemmola.com/blog/?p=1393</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Cutting back the giant fig tree over the driveway &#8211; it was fed to Foti and Eleni&#8217;s goats. Goodbye Militsa&#8230; The front garden has benefited greatly from regular watering this summer. It will be missed.]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Cutting back the giant fig tree over the driveway &#8211; it was fed to Foti and Eleni&#8217;s goats.<br />
<a href="http://gemmola.com/blog/?attachment_id=1379" rel="attachment wp-att-1379"><img src="http://gemmola.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2010/09/MG_0668-426x640.jpg" alt="" title="Pruning fig tree" width="426" height="640" class="alignnone size-medium wp-image-1379" /></a></p>
<p>Goodbye Militsa&#8230;<br />
<a href="http://gemmola.com/blog/?attachment_id=1374" rel="attachment wp-att-1374"><img src="http://gemmola.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2010/09/MG_0671-640x426.jpg" alt="" title="Militsa house gate view" width="640" height="426" class="alignnone size-medium wp-image-1374" /></a></p>
<p>The front garden has benefited greatly from regular watering this summer. It will be missed.<br />
<a href="http://gemmola.com/blog/?attachment_id=1377" rel="attachment wp-att-1377"><img src="http://gemmola.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2010/09/MG_0672-640x426.jpg" alt="" title="House front garden Militsa" width="640" height="426" class="alignnone size-medium wp-image-1377" /></a></p>
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		<title>Last visit to Pylos</title>
		<link>http://gemmola.com/blog/?p=1388</link>
		<comments>http://gemmola.com/blog/?p=1388#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2010 06:49:02 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>chantzis</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Europe]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://gemmola.com/blog/?p=1388</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Skrombola wanted us to photograph an old French painting depicting the battle of Navarino. The painting belongs to a centenarian lady who came from a wealthy family and whos house right on the famous square of Pylos has a large garden. Skrombola works in the garden there which is how we got in to take [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Skrombola wanted us to photograph an old French painting depicting the battle of Navarino.<br />
<a href="http://gemmola.com/blog/?attachment_id=1403" rel="attachment wp-att-1403"><img src="http://gemmola.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2010/09/MG_0644-640x491.jpg" alt="" title="navarino Painting" width="640" height="491" class="alignnone size-medium wp-image-1403" /></a></p>
<p>The painting belongs to a centenarian lady who came from a wealthy family and whos house right on the famous square of Pylos has a large garden. Skrombola works in the garden there which is how we got in to take a tour and photograph the art. It&#8217;s also how he manages to secure boxes and boxes of ripe avocados &#8211; from the huge tree in the yard.<br />
<a href="http://gemmola.com/blog/?attachment_id=1375" rel="attachment wp-att-1375"><img src="http://gemmola.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2010/09/MG_0645-442x640.jpg" alt="" title="Avocado Pylos" width="442" height="640" class="alignnone size-medium wp-image-1375" /></a></p>
<p>Another &#8216;Archontissa&#8217; of Pylos &#8211; not quite a centenarian but definitely an original Pylotissa.<br />
<a href="http://gemmola.com/blog/?attachment_id=1376" rel="attachment wp-att-1376"><img src="http://gemmola.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2010/09/MG_0649-640x416.jpg" alt="" title="Pylos Archontissa" width="640" height="416" class="alignnone size-medium wp-image-1376" /></a></p>
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		<title>Lunch at Kefalovriso</title>
		<link>http://gemmola.com/blog/?p=1385</link>
		<comments>http://gemmola.com/blog/?p=1385#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2010 06:45:04 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>chantzis</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Europe]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://gemmola.com/blog/?p=1385</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[The spring which feeds water to Militsa and a number of other villages has some huge plane trees and a picnic bench. We took yiayia Despo there to meet Foti, Eleni, Soula and Soula&#8217;s grand-daughter for lunch. Yiayia had a great time telling stories, reminiscing and laughing.]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>The spring which feeds water to Militsa and a number of other villages has some huge plane trees and a picnic bench. We took yiayia Despo there to meet Foti, Eleni, Soula and Soula&#8217;s grand-daughter for lunch.<br />
<a href="http://gemmola.com/blog/?attachment_id=1381" rel="attachment wp-att-1381"><img src="http://gemmola.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2010/09/MG_0599-426x640.jpg" alt="" title="Lunch Kefalovriso" width="426" height="640" class="alignnone size-medium wp-image-1381" /></a></p>
<p>Yiayia had a great time telling stories, reminiscing and laughing.<br />
<a href="http://gemmola.com/blog/?attachment_id=1378" rel="attachment wp-att-1378"><img src="http://gemmola.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2010/09/MG_0609-640x426.jpg" alt="" title="Yiayia laughing kefalovriso" width="640" height="426" class="alignnone size-medium wp-image-1378" /></a> </p>
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		<title>Photo search continues</title>
		<link>http://gemmola.com/blog/?p=1372</link>
		<comments>http://gemmola.com/blog/?p=1372#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2010 06:42:26 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>chantzis</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Europe]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://gemmola.com/blog/?p=1372</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Last week in Militsa we checked out some more stashes of old photos. Talk about Roald Dahl&#8217;s BFG &#8211; in these parts I bang my head on every door frame. Martina with Olga and Diamanto. My great-grandparents.]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Last week in Militsa we checked out some more stashes of old photos. </p>
<p>Talk about Roald Dahl&#8217;s BFG &#8211; in these parts I bang my head on every door frame.<br />
<a href="http://gemmola.com/blog/?attachment_id=1382" rel="attachment wp-att-1382"><img src="http://gemmola.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2010/09/MG_0478-640x426.jpg" alt="" title="BFG" width="640" height="426" class="alignnone size-medium wp-image-1382" /></a></p>
<p>Martina with Olga and Diamanto.<br />
<a href="http://gemmola.com/blog/?attachment_id=1373" rel="attachment wp-att-1373"><img src="http://gemmola.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2010/09/MG_0499-426x640.jpg" alt="" title="Three ladies militsa" width="426" height="640" class="alignnone size-medium wp-image-1373" /></a></p>
<p>My great-grandparents.<br />
<a href="http://gemmola.com/blog/?attachment_id=1380" rel="attachment wp-att-1380"><img src="http://gemmola.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2010/09/MG_0527-640x517.jpg" alt="" title="Roumani" width="640" height="517" class="alignnone size-medium wp-image-1380" /></a></p>
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		<title>Metamorfosi, Athens</title>
		<link>http://gemmola.com/blog/?p=1368</link>
		<comments>http://gemmola.com/blog/?p=1368#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Sun, 12 Sep 2010 12:10:46 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>chantzis</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Europe]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://gemmola.com/blog/?p=1368</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Fotini &#8216;hanging out&#8217; in Metamorfosi. Sunday morning: Uncle Panagioti has set the table for two &#8211; him and me. Sardines, cheese, sausage, and eggs on the way. Oh, and a big bottle of ouzo Plomariou. (Editor&#8217;s note: this was followed by home made pastitsio, then a delivery of grilled chicken and chips. Switch to beer. [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Fotini &#8216;hanging out&#8217; in Metamorfosi.</p>
<p><a href="http://gemmola.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2010/09/p_1600_1200_C5797327-A881-4CDD-AB0A-4321BA1FD139.jpeg"><img src="http://gemmola.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2010/09/p_1600_1200_C5797327-A881-4CDD-AB0A-4321BA1FD139.jpeg" alt="" class="alignnone size-full" /></a></p>
<p>Sunday morning: Uncle Panagioti has set the table for two &#8211; him and me. Sardines, cheese, sausage, and eggs on the way. Oh, and a big bottle of ouzo Plomariou. (Editor&#8217;s note: this was followed by home made pastitsio, then a delivery of grilled chicken and chips. Switch to beer. And then wine&#8230; Help!) <a href="http://gemmola.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2010/09/l_1600_1200_E3F4F15B-D31C-42C1-B0E5-929C82DDC361.jpeg"><img src="http://gemmola.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2010/09/l_1600_1200_E3F4F15B-D31C-42C1-B0E5-929C82DDC361.jpeg" alt="" class="alignnone size-full" /></a></p>
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		<title>God is our co-pilot</title>
		<link>http://gemmola.com/blog/?p=1355</link>
		<comments>http://gemmola.com/blog/?p=1355#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Sat, 11 Sep 2010 16:51:09 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>chantzis</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Europe]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://gemmola.com/blog/?p=1355</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Fortunately we had God onside for our bus trip from Kalamata to Athens. the downside is that this very bus broke down on the highway recently, leaving Lissa stranded in the middle of nowhere until God could procure a backup bus. We&#8217;re nearly in Athens now so it seems like the problem has been rectified. [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Fortunately we had God onside for our bus trip from Kalamata to Athens. the downside is that this very bus broke down on the highway recently, leaving Lissa stranded in the middle of nowhere until God could procure a backup bus. We&#8217;re nearly in Athens now so it seems like the problem has been rectified. I&#8217;d feel better if there was a plastic Jesus on the dashboard though. </p>
<p><a href="http://gemmola.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2010/09/l_1600_1200_211B7E95-8E16-4979-A8BB-97BE329EFC0D.jpeg"><img src="http://gemmola.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2010/09/l_1600_1200_211B7E95-8E16-4979-A8BB-97BE329EFC0D.jpeg" alt="" class="alignnone size-full" /></a></p>
<p>Rainbow over Tripoli but no rain in Militsa.<br />
<a href="http://gemmola.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2010/09/l_1600_1200_73C022E9-021A-406E-BF9C-DA9E1A1C00E0.jpeg"><img src="http://gemmola.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2010/09/l_1600_1200_73C022E9-021A-406E-BF9C-DA9E1A1C00E0.jpeg" alt="" class="alignnone size-full" /></a></p>
<p>Crossing the Corinth canal.<br />
<a href="http://gemmola.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2010/09/l_1600_1200_91BAB336-C405-47DE-8998-1A28E6F4C370.jpeg"><img src="http://gemmola.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2010/09/l_1600_1200_91BAB336-C405-47DE-8998-1A28E6F4C370.jpeg" alt="" class="alignnone size-full" /></a></p>
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